Pilgrimage

📅 April 2 – Kathmandu Arrival & First Kora

• Venerable Ajahn Buddhisaro arrives in Kathmandu.

• Evening: Performed the first kora around Boudhanath Stupa, beginning the pilgrimage with deep aspiration and heartfelt prayers.

• The cool night air was filled with the fragrance of butter lamps and incense, setting an auspicious tone.

📅 April 3 – Pharping: Guru Rinpoche’s Enlightenment Spring

• Journey to Pharping, visiting Guru Rinpoche’s Enlightenment Spring.

• Encountered an extraordinary yogi, in retreat for 20 years, radiating a powerful presence of renunciation and realization.

• Sat in silent contemplation by the spring, offering personal prayers for wisdom and purification.

  
  

📅 April 4 – Kathmandu: Tilopa-Naropa Caves & Mingyur Rinpoche

• Morning: Visited the sacred Tilopa–Naropa Caves at Pashupatinath Temple, reflecting on the profound yogic attainments of these great siddhas.

• Afternoon: Took Ajahn for medical consultation; golden needle therapy recommended to begin in two weeks.

• Evening: Attended a transformative 2-hour Q&A and meditation session with Mingyur Rinpoche at Buddha Prakash Foundation. His clarity and humor deeply touched the heart.

• Later Evening: Circumambulated the luminous Swayambhunath Stupa, its spire shining under the night sky.

  
  

📅 April 5 – Kathmandu: Achi Puja & Milarepa Fire Puja

• Morning: Attended a powerful Achi Puja at Rinchen Ling Monastery—the protective energy was palpable.

• Afternoon: Visited Tara Sangchen Retreat Center.

  • Participated in a Milarepa Fire Puja with Dorzin Dondrub Rinpoche and the Lapchi yogis.

  • Offered prayers for purification and the flourishing of the Dharma. The smell of juniper and the crackling of the sacred fire left a lasting impression.

    
    

📅 April 6 – Kathmandu: Blessings from Great Masters

• Morning: Received personal blessings from three great teachers:

  • Chökyi Nyima Rinpoche

  • Tulku Yangtse Rinpoche

  • Pakchok Rinpoche

• Visited the intellectual sanctuary of Rangjung Yeshe Institute.

• Afternoon: Wandered the peaceful courtyards of Shechen Monastery, contemplating the vast legacy of Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche.

📅 April 7 – Guru Rinpoche Sambhava Day

• Attended the vibrant Guru Rinpoche Day Puja at Shechen Monastery.

• The monastery was alive with sacred melodies and the rhythmic beat of ritual instruments.

• Received blessings from Matthieu Ricard, whose presence radiated kindness and humility.

  
  

📅 April 8 – From Shechen to Namo Buddha

• Morning: Tea with Lama Dawa, who personally guided us through Shechen Monastery, showing the sacred Tara Room, Guru Rinpoche Room, and the private quarters of Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche.

• Afternoon: Attended the profound Medicine Buddha Lung at Kopan Nunnery, bestowed by a Geshe Lharampa from the Tantric College, with the radiant presence of Khandro-la (Naljorma Khadro Namsel Drönme).

• Evening: Traveled to Namo Buddha, checked into the charming and rustic Namaste Homestay, and performed kora around the sacred stupa as twilight set in.

  
  

📅 April 9–10 – Namo Buddha: Rest, Practice, and Healing

• Participated in seminars at Namo Buddha Monastery, where we met Gloria, a dedicated practitioner.

• Carl fell ill and remained in deep rest.

• April 10 (Afternoon): Visited the Tibetan clinic near Namo Buddha for health advice.

  
  

📅 April 11–16 – Kathmandu Hospital Stay & Healing Pujas

• Early Morning (April 11): Carl diagnosed himself with pneumonia and was admitted to the hospital for intensive care.

• Performed continuous pujas with Lama Nyima, who compassionately stayed for three nights to offer spiritual support.

• Ajahn continued attending the Tonglen Seminar nearby, maintaining the practice of exchanging self and others even during this challenging time.

• April 13 (Sunday): Ajahn arrived at the hospital; Lama Dawa surprised us with a heartfelt visit, spending the night with us. Tobias also joined, uplifting our spirits.

• April 15: CT scan confirmed improvement.

• April 16: Carl was discharged, and we returned to Namo Buddha, stopping for a symbolic haircut, marking a fresh beginning after the intense purification of illness.

  
  

📅 April 16–20 – Namo Buddha: Sacred Encounters and Deep Practice

• Ajahn fell ill with throat pain and began a course of antibiotics.

• April 19: Undertook an extraordinary day-long tour with Lama Nyima.

  • Visited the Tiger’s Den, where we conducted a special prayer session.

  • Lama Nyima shared his life story and took us to his childhood home, introducing us to his family with great warmth.

  • Concluded the day with a heartfelt session at the Namo Buddha stupa.

    
    

📅 April 20 – Back to Kathmandu

• After a scolding from Anila in the morning (a humorous reminder to maintain discipline!), we traveled to Kathmandu with Palden-la for a medical X-ray.

• Checked back into PKR Guesthouse and completed an evening kora at Boudhanath Stupa under the serene night sky.

📅 April 21 – Kathmandu: Statues and Aspirations

• Morning visit to the visa embassy.

• Spent the day browsing Patan’s ancient statue shops.

  • Found two exquisite Manjushri statues and a beautifully crafted Marpa–Gampopa–Milarepa set.

• The day ended with aspirations to bring these sacred objects to benefit others.

  
  

📅 April 22 – Unexpected Blessings and Empowerment

• Breakfast at Nirvana Café with Tobias.

• In a moment of perfect karmic coincidence, the Pharping guesthouse manager we had been trying to contact was sitting just behind us.

• Visited Khandro-la for the first time, an encounter that would profoundly shape the days to come.

• Evening: Attended the enthronement anniversary puja of a Vietnamese Rinpoche.

• Received a life-changing chakra cleansing and empowerment from Khandro-la, formally stepping onto the Mahayana Dzogchen path.

  
  

📅 April 23 – From Empowerments to Pharping

• Early morning participation in the Chenrezig empowerment.

• Journeyed to Pharping for a two-night retreat at Adzom Monastery.

  
  

📅 April 24–25 – Pharping: Caves, Consecrations, and Deep Practice

• Visited the Self-Arisen Tara Cave and witnessed the White Tara statue consecration by a revered lama.

• Meditated deeply at the Asura Cave, absorbing the vibrant spiritual energy left behind by generations of realized beings.

• Made pilgrimage to the Vajrayogini Temple and Marpa Temple.

• Carl consulted the Tibetan doctor for an emergency negative energy clearing.

• Met Colleen at Asura Cave and shared lunch, forming a new Dharma friendship.

• Witnessed raw, ancient rituals at the Dakshinkali Temple, observing the complex nature of offerings and sacrifices.

• Ajahn and Tobias returned to the Asura Cave in the evening, performing final dedications and hanging prayer flags in the cool mountain air.

  
  

📅 April 26 – Final Blessings Before Lumbini

• Visited Chatrul Rinpoche’s Kudung Temple and Yangleshö Cave.

• Witnessed the profound Vajrakilaya Puja conducted by Chatrul Rinpoche’s sangha.

• Purchased a Chenrezig statue, Green Tara statue, and a special mala for Tobias.

• In the evening, boarded the night bus to Lumbini, enduring an uncomfortable journey but lifted by the joy of pilgrimage.

📅 April 27 – Lumbini: Birthplace of the Buddha

• Attended a grand puja at the Mayadevi Temple, joining pilgrims from the Theravāda, Mahayana, and Vajrayāna traditions.

• Despite the sweltering heat, the sacredness of the site was tangible.

• Carl suffered from heat exhaustion and retreated to rest at Peace Land Hotel.

• In the evening, Ajahn and Tobias returned to the Mayadevi Temple, soaking in the serenity of the garden under the fading golden light.

  
  

📅 April 28 – Lumbini: Final Pilgrimage and Powerful Puja

• Participated in a birthday puja for the Thai prince, joining again the united sanghas of multiple traditions.

• Visited significant monasteries, including:

  • Thrangu Rinpoche’s Monastery

  • Drikung Kagyu Lotus Temple

  • Other beautiful centers reflecting global Buddhist architecture.

• Traveled to the deeply sacred Ramagrama Stupa, the only undisturbed stupa containing relics of the historical Buddha.

  • Conducted a profound naga puja and epic paritta chanting under the cool shade of ancient trees.

• Took the overnight bus back to Boudhanath, sleeping peacefully throughout the return journey.

  
  

📅 April 29 – Boudhanath: An Auspicious Return

• Upon arrival, we met Khandro-la again.

• Tobias formally ordained as a yogi under her guidance, a significant turning point in his spiritual journey.

• Carl and Ajahn visited the Guru Rinpoche shrine and dedicated the merits of the entire pilgrimage.

• Finished the day with a heartfelt evening kora at Boudhanath Stupa, under the shimmering light of butter lamps.

  
  

📅 April 30 – Bhaktapur: Statues, Goodbyes, and Final Offerings

• Visited Sekhar Retreat Center for a peaceful closing reflection and a tour guided by Kunga Lama.

• Despite challenging off-road taxi rides, reached the Milarepa Village Retreat and paid respects at the Nagarjuna Statue.

• Said farewell to Tobias, his journey taking a new direction after his yogi ordination.

• Carl and Ajahn went statue shopping, acquiring a beautiful White Tara statue and a Milarepa statue to commemorate the pilgrimage.

📅 May 1 – Kathmandu: Final Day and Farewell Blessings

• Enjoyed a warm breakfast with Tara and Professor David, reflecting on the depth of the pilgrimage.

• Visited Kopan Monastery and paid final respects to the great master Lama Zopa Rinpoche, offering heartfelt aspirations for the path ahead.

• Spent the afternoon walking back slowly through the vibrant streets of Kathmandu, making final small offerings and completing last-minute shopping.

• Concluded the day with a farewell tea gathering with Lama Dawa and Jarra, exchanging stories and laughter, sealing the journey with gratitude and a sense of completion.

  
  

📅 May 2 – Journey to Varanasi

• Departed from Bodi Guesthouse at 5:00 AM for the airport, catching the 7:00 AM direct flight to Varanasi on Buddha Air.

• Upon arrival in Varanasi, traveled directly to Sarnath, checking into the charming Mahamayi Guesthouse with its simple comforts and welcome air conditioning.

• The guesthouse owner, a devout Buddhist and regular at the Thai Temple, was delighted to host a Bhante, sharing stories and blessings.

• After a brief rest, walked to the sacred Dhamek Stupa, where the Buddha delivered the Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta—his first turning of the Dharma Wheel.

• Reflected deeply on the historical significance of the site, remembering how Añña Koṇḍañña became the first to realize Nibbāna.

• Returned to the guesthouse for a peaceful evening.

  
  

📅 May 3 – Sarnath & Varanasi: Chanting, Pilgrimage, and a Holy Dip

• Morning: Returned early to the Dhamek Stupa to beat the intense heat.

  • Had the entire stupa grounds to ourselves—a rare and deeply sacred experience.

  • Circumambulated the stupa, chanting the Heart Sutra in Sanskrit and English.

  • Sat under the shade and recited the Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta together, feeling profoundly connected to the Buddha’s first teachings.

• Visited the Jain Temple and the vibrant Sri Lankan Temple, marveling at its detailed murals depicting the Buddha’s life.

• Explored the Sarnath Archaeological Museum, gazing in awe at the life-sized Gupta-era Buddha statues and the iconic Sarnath Buddha in the Dharmachakra Mudra.

• Rested in the afternoon before traveling into the ancient city of Varanasi in the evening.

  • Witnessed the grand Agni Fire Puja along the Ganges River, surrounded by thousands of pilgrims.

  • Found a peaceful rooftop café overlooking the Ganges and enjoyed tea and snacks, contemplating the timelessness of the sacred river.

  • Walked through the bustling ghats to the Burning Ghats, where the reality of birth, death, and impermanence was raw and immediate.

  • Performed contemplative chants on the nature of the body and its inevitable end: “This body is of the same nature; it will become like that; it is not exempt from that fate.”

  • With a sense of reverence and surrender, took a holy dip in the Ganges River, feeling the karmic burdens washed away in the sacred current.

  • Ended the day with a chaotic yet vibrant tuk-tuk ride back to Sarnath, passing wedding processions and joyful celebrations before returning to the guesthouse for rest.

    
    

📅 May 4 – Sarnath: Final Blessings and Preparation for Bodh Gaya

• Enjoyed a restful morning, allowing the body and mind to settle after the profound experiences of the previous day.

• Visited the first Tibetan temple built in India, honoring the beginnings of the Tibetan Dharma presence in the land of the Buddha.

• Visited the Thai Temple, admiring the majestic giant standing Buddha statue, radiating calm and noble presence.

• Paid a final visit to the Thrangu Rinpoche Sarnath Shedra College and Training Center, meeting some of Lama Nyima La’s friends and witnessing the continuation of scholarly and contemplative traditions.

• Stopped by the Central Institute of Higher Tibetan Studies, reflecting on the importance of preserving Buddhist philosophy and wisdom for future generations.

• Spent a quiet evening at Mahamayi Guesthouse, enjoying the simplicity and peace of the closing day, packing and preparing for the next phase of the journey to Bodh Gaya.

  
  

📅 May 5 – Journey to Bodh Gaya: The Road of Devotion

• Determined to find a SIM card for Carl to arrange a crucial neurological appointment in Delhi, but despite hours of effort, none could be secured.

• Attempted to secure train tickets for the 4:00 PM train to Bodh Gaya but were unable to obtain seats.

• In a stroke of karmic coincidence, met a fellow Hungarian pilgrim, Peter, who also sought to travel to Bodh Gaya.

• Together, arranged an Uber taxi, embarking on a long but memorable road journey.

• The driver, a passionate Hanuman devotee, chanted the Hanuman Chalisa throughout the drive, creating a joyful and protective atmosphere.

• Engaged in lively Dharma discussions the entire way, the miles passing beneath the wheels like pages of a living sutta.

• Arrived in Bodh Gaya around 10:00 PM, greeted by the sounds and lights of a vibrant local wedding festival.

• Checked into OM International Guest House, while Peter continued onward to Gaya for his accommodations.

  
  

📅 May 6 – Bodh Gaya: A Homecoming to the Bodhi Tree

• Awoke early to beat the heat and walked straight to the Mahabodhi Temple and the revered Bodhi Tree.

• For Carl, it was a profound homecoming after 26 years; the air itself seemed to hum with the echoes of enlightenment.

• Sat beneath the sacred tree, engaging in deep meditation, chanting, and heartfelt aspiration prayers.

• Offered new monastic robes and a specially prepared Vajra Asana sitting cloth under the Bodhi Tree, symbolizing renunciation and dedication.

• Enjoyed lunch at Mohammed Restaurant, which had quickly become a favorite, known for its simplicity and honest flavors.

• Returned to the Mahabodhi Temple for the evening session, joining pilgrims from every corner of the world:

  • Large Vietnamese and Tibetan groups

  • Throngs of Thai devotees

  • Indian pilgrims and countless wandering seekers

• Circumambulated the Mahabodhi Temple in the cool evening air, reciting mantras and soaking in the atmosphere of profound devotion.

• Returned to the guesthouse for late-night tea and lively Dharma discussion, reciting suttas significant to the Buddha’s enlightenment.

📅 May 7 – Bodh Gaya: Simple Joys and Sacred Offerings

• Started the day with gentle sitting and walking meditation under the cool shade of the Bodhi Tree, savoring the peaceful energy before the day’s heat.

• Spent the day exploring the local statue shops, carefully selecting small statues for Dharma Treasure offerings.

• Carl found a comfortable new sitting cushion and a beautiful Shakyamuni Buddha statue, its serene expression perfectly embodying the peace of enlightenment.

• Enjoyed lunch again at Mohammed Restaurant, appreciating the comforting simplicity of the meals there.

• The afternoon unfolded into a profound Dharma discussion on the nature of emptiness, exploring the subtleties of dependent origination and the illusory nature of phenomena.

• Concluded the day with a peaceful return to the guesthouse, reflecting on the preciousness of these simple, meaningful moments.

  
  

📅 May 8 – Bodh Gaya: Pilgrimage to Sacred Monasteries

• Slept in to allow the body to fully rest before venturing out into the hot day.

• Visited the Chirgar Monastery, taking in the quiet dignity of its grounds.

• Made a special pilgrimage to the revered Shechen Monastery and the grand stupa built in honor of Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche, experiencing the powerful blessings left by his legacy.

• In the evening, returned once again to the Mahabodhi Temple, joining the global community of pilgrims for meditation, circumambulations, and vibrant pujas under the shimmering night sky and the watchful presence of the Bodhi Tree.

  
  

📅 May 9 – Day Pilgrimage to Rajgir and Nalanda: Walking in the Buddha’s Footsteps

• Departed at 6:00 AM by taxi for a full-day pilgrimage to Rajgir and Nalanda.

• Arrived at Vulture’s Peak (Gijjhakūṭa) by late morning, the air already heavy with heat.

  • Joined a small group of Tibetan pilgrims and chanted the Heart Sutra in Sanskrit and English.

  • Sat in meditation at the sacred Śāriputra Cave and Mahāmoggallāna Cave, feeling deeply connected to the early sangha’s renunciant life.

  • Paid a brief yet heartfelt visit to Mahākassapa’s Cave, reflecting on the great elder’s ascetic example.

• Continued to the peaceful gardens of Jetavana Grove (Anāthapiṇḍika’s Park), walking slowly among the trees and remembering the deep generosity of Anāthapiṇḍika.

• Traveled onward to the ruins of the great Nalanda University, walking among the remnants of the once-glorious center of Mahayana learning.

  • Contemplated the legacies of legendary Mahapanditas and Siddhas:

    • Nāgārjuna, Śāntideva, Asaṅga, Vasubandhu, Dharmakīrti, and the beloved tantric master Nāropa.

  • Felt a renewed sense of purpose and gratitude for the living Dharma, which continues through their teachings.

• Returned to Bodh Gaya by late afternoon, taking time for rest.

• In the evening, we went to the Mahabodhi Temple and reunited with a new Dharma friend, Parping Tsering, a Nepali-Tibetan yogi now residing in Bodhgaya.

• Together, performed heartfelt pujas at the Mahabodhi Temple and under the Bodhi Tree, circumambulating and chanting mantras into the night.

• Returned to the guesthouse, concluding the day with deep gratitude for the lineage of great teachers and the blessings of this precious human life.

(To be continued...)